Florence

At the end of my story on Tuscany I said that Florence needed its own praise, so…

Florence…where to start. History? Museums? People? Architecture? Art? Churches? Or all of the above? Let’s do all of the above.

The opening chapter of the Book of Florence has to be the Medicis, that (in)famous family that dominated Florence from about 1532 to 1737.

Giovanni Medici (1363-1429) was a money lender and owned productive land upon which the wealth of the family was based. With time he founded the Medici Bank. His son Cosimo de Medici and his grandson Lorenzo the Magnificent expanded the reach of the bank into Rome, Venice, Naples, London, Pisa, Bruges and Geneva, generating extreme wealth. He became the Papacy’s banker, and Florence’s leading family, exerting control over the Council. For three generations the family controlled Florence and were, arguably, the godfathers of the Renaissance supporting the arts and sciences. The family financed the building of Florence’s Duomo and St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, and were patrons of Donatello, Brunelleschi, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Galileo, Botticelli, Raphael, and many others. They also were nor loathe to buy influence and purchased the papacy, placing four Medicis on the throne of St. Peter. So, you can thank the Medicis for the Renaissance, the revival of humanism, and all the museums you will visit during your stay including the Museo di Medici at the Rotondo del Brunelleschi on Via degli Alfani.

So, the Duomo, aka, the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore …There had been a church on that spot since the 5^th century. In the 13^th century, the old church was demolished, and a new grander church was desired with a nice bell tower. Work was started in 1296 and went on in fits and starts until 1330 when Giotto took up the task, until his death in 1337. Forty years later, it was completed, but, no dome…no architect could figure how to build such a large dome on the original design, until Brunelleschi. His final results were astounding for the time. At the top, and to stabilize the structure he placed a heavy concrete ‘lantern’ and a golden dome, symbolizing the Medici. Cosimo tasked his court painter Giorgio Vasari to paint the underside of the dome. Thus, was created the Last Judgment, a masterwork.

Wikimedia Commons – livioandronico201

It is still the third largest church in Christendom. Walk up the bell tower or to the top of the Dome itself for the iconic view of the city, visit the Baptistry and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo; within the church (probably take you all day to do it justice).

The baptistry has another treasure, the gilded bronze east door – The Gates of Paradise - by Lorenzo Ghiberti. The original is in the Museo, but the copy is stunning.

A door of the Duomo

A few blocks south, right near the Arno are the Piazza della Signoria, the Loggia dei Lanzi and the Palazzo Vecchio, the second focal point of Florence. The Piazza (or is it Pizza?) has the amazing Fountain of Neptune, and one side has the Loggia dei Lanzi with several world-famous sculptures…then there is the Palazzo Vecchio, right behind Neptune. 

In the Loggia - the rape of the Sabine women by Giambologna

Perseus with the head of Medusa by Cellini

The abduction of Polyxena by Pio Fedi (who?)

 The Palazzo Vecchio

…The Old Palace, old, because Cosimo later moved from there to the Palazzo Pitti (the new palace). Cosimo had Georgio Vasari build an enclosed corridor from the Vecchio, through the Uffizi…over the Ponte Vecchio to his new digs in the Pitti. So he wouldn’t have to step into the streets. In the centre of the inner courtyard is a 16^th century fountain of a dolphin, designed by Vasari. The water flowing out of the dolphin’s nose is piped in from the Boboli Gardens (behind the Pitti Palace) on the other side of the Arno.

At the very top of the Boboli Gardens is the expansive Fontana del Carciofo worth a look, and while you are on that side of the Arno, you have to climb to the Piazzale Michaelangelo for this amazing view of Florence. 

The Great Hall - Creative Commons by Guillaume Piolle

 …from where the Medici’s received emissaries and controlled the city.

Piazzale Michelangelo -Creative Commons by Zairon

 A little bit west of the palazzo is the Fontana del Porcellino. It is said that if you rub his nose, you WILL return to Florence (didn’t O hear that somewhere else….ahhh… the Trevi Fountain?)

Uffizi Gallery

…the masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance, 23 in all, and so much more. Then there are the Roman sculptures, and all of the above, donated by Anna Maria Luisa, the last Medici heiress. Fifty rooms are dedicated to works from the 14^th to the 18^th centuries such as:   

The Birth of Venus by Botticelli,

…Judith Beheading Holofernes by Gentilesschi

…The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci…Creative Commons - Livioamdronico2013

Rembrandt – Self Portrait as a Young Man

Not too far north of the Duomo is the Galleria dell’Accademia, on Via Ricassoli, home of THE David. It is the second most visited museum in Italy after the Uffizi. Its contents are truly remarkable, (I might just stop saying ‘remarkable’ right here about Florentine museums, so consider it said…) including David, along with paintings by Fra Angelo of, get this, the Prophet Isaiah dressed like a Florentine dandy, a sculpture of Brunelleschi by Pampaloni, a whole bunch of 13^th to 16^th century religious triptychs, but, two roomfuls of Madonna and Child? Though, aside David, my favourites were the old musical instruments including a Strad Violin and cello, an Amati cello and some very odd musical instruments.

The Ponte Vecchio

Jewelry, jewelry, very expensive jewelry. So, of course, the bridge is medieval and miraculously survived WWII. From one end to the other, on both sides, it is packed with jewelry shops. After ogling these unaffordable goodies, on the other side of the Arno, stop at Gino’s Bakery for everything sweet, treat yourself … or if you fancy something cool on a hot day, right next door is Edoardo il Gelato Biologico – Gelateria. There… you have tasted REAL Italian gelato and brought home yummy desert.

Surrounded by eleven, yes, eleven other restaurants in the same one square block area, just north of The Palazzo Uffizi is the oldest trattoria, in continuous existence, in Florence: Antico Ristorante Paoli. Glance in and you’ll see vaulted ceilings and walls covered with frescoes. There is an on-line menu…without prices, bring your platinum credit card.

Palazzo Pitti

On the other side of the Arno, for us, this was actually the pièce de resistance of museums, everything way over the top, ogle-worthy, neck-craning, think of other superlatives. Every room was different, packed with old ‘stuff’ – suitable for a king. Starting in the oldest collection, one moves through the rooms and up in time. I could go on and on, but a few pictures… 

The Little sculptor – Michelangelo

Leo X de Medici with (Cardinal) cousins - Raphael

Donna Lavaletta - Raphael

…bunch of Italian guys - Rubens

The monumental Ecce Homo…He’s done nothing wrong – Pontius Pilate – Antonio Ciseri

We were early, so a little latté in the morning... 

Dante’s House

…not really, it kinda, maybe, sort of, might have looked like that in the 13^th century, (I doubt it) but it does look cool. The Italian Shakespeare, the author of the Divine Comedy probably lived around here. His museum includes objects from the 14^th century, everyday items, clothing…visitors follow a route through the life of the poet. A portrait of the poet is engraved into the pavement of the square in front of the house. 

The National Museum of Bargello

The Bargello, also known as the Palazzo del Bargello, or Palazzo del Popolo, is a former public building (looks like a fortress), was used as the police headquarters, later a prison, mostly built in the 13^th century, In 1865 it was turned into a national museum. It specializes in famous, amazing sculptures. There are also fine works of art on two floors, large and small, Roman and Byzantine ivories, medieval glazes, Limoges porcelains from German and French gold works and more…The courtyard is filled with art.

Courtyard, filled with ‘stuff’.

Oceanus (central figures) in the courtyard by Giambologna

David by Donatello

Fisher Boy by. V. Gemitto

Adam and Eve – by Bandinelli

Mercury by Giambologna, considered his best work

Bust of Michelangelo by Danielle da Volterra

Some pretty decent pizza (or is it piazza) in the square next to the Bargello.

Santa Maria Novella

In case you still have not had your fill of renaissance art, drop in on this Dominican Basilica, and find works by Giotto, Duccio, Brunelleschi, Botticelli, Masaccio, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Filippino Lippi, Giorgio Vasari, Paolo Uccello and Michelangelo. Building was started in around 1275 and finished in 1420 – not unusual for this period. Fun Fact: Brunelleschi designed the pulpit and it was from here that Father Tommaso Caccini denounced Galileo Galilei’s defence of the sun-centered solar system of Copernicus.

Basilica of Santa Croce on its Piazza

Home to 4000 works of art from the 13^th to the 20^th centuries. This is the burial place of Machiavelli, Michelangelo and others.  OK, let the pictures do the talking… 

Georgio Vasari’s Last Supper

The Tree of Life by Taddeo Gaddi

Mercato Centrale

Its huge and even spills outside, if you are here for a while and you like to do your own cooking, this will be a regular drop-in for every type of ingredients you need and some that you may not even recognize, or… visit just for the vibe.

Creative Commons by Sailko

 Now, for a bit more of that sensory experience of Firenze…

Trattori Pallottino, a no-nonsense eatery with home-made pasta… where the locals eat.

Trattoria Sostanza, another little hole-in-the-wall, well appointed.

Or try La Ménagère, just north of the Duomo, for quaint surroundings.

For the oldest trattoria, well, Sostanza has a claim, Antico Ristorante Paoli was founded in 1827, but for continuous service, its Buca Lapi, established in 1880. It is in the Palazzo Antinori for extra charm.

If you’re looking for just a nice sandwich, after visiting Santa Maria Novella, head into All’ Antico Vinaio nearby. Nice little shop – a franchise with shops in a dozen Italian cities as well as New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Las Vegas and Dubai airport.

…and if you want more yummy ice cream, Gellateria Dei Neri, near the Uffizi Palace, in business for 30 years, hits the spot with top reviews.

Rooftop Terrasse Se Sto On Arno in the Westin Hotel – a superb experience – not for the poor though.

And finally, AnticaTrattoria di Tito, a few blocks north of the Accademia which had a sign in its window: ‘No well-done steaks served here’. A family came in with two kids, boy and girl, maybe 10 & 12 – ordered the famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina – two-inch-thick T-Bone, sold by the kilo. The server expertly chopped it up and the family finished it off before we were done. BTW, they arrived after us and left before us.

We could talk about Florentine Leather, Negroni cocktails, and what’s the deal with a monster Florentine T-Bone steak, (it's all about the breed) but, enough for now.

 Go, you'll love it.

I know, I know, lots of pics, just a couple more: 

I like Lovely Food, too.